Laura Morelli--Buyer's Guide: Treasure Hunting in New Mexico

The moment I stepped from a blinding Albuquerque noon into the antique shop’s dim haze, he was staring at me.

A blank stare, it was true, the enigmatic, lonely gaze of a saint carved long ago from a cottonwood root. He caught my eye from the wall beyond a jumbled display of turquoise stones, cracked leather, a mountain creature’s gnarled antlers, and a feathered headdress. I crossed the worn planks to take a closer look. He was missing a hand, and his robes—once vibrant—were now faded and chipped. But these little flaws only added to his charm. I was smitten.

My little treasure—my antique New Mexican santo—is one of the joys of my collection. It’s brings me pleasure not only because of its simple beauty and cultural legacy, but also because of how I found it—on a treasure hunt.

In New Mexico, when it comes to locating a perfect piece to complete your collection or a decorative home accent, getting there is half the fun. Browsing for that undiscovered gem may take you from the grand structures of Taos Pueblo, to the plazas of Santa Fe and Albuquerque, or the artisan villages of Chimayó or Madrid. Whether or not you have something specific in mind, you may return home not only with one of the traditional crafts of the region—a hand-hewn bench, a kachina figure, or a Navajo rug—but memories of the awesome experience of discovering some of the Southwest’s most evocative places.

The landscape between Albuquerque and Taos is a patchwork quilt of cultures and traditions—Native American, Hispanic, and Western. In family-run shops and artisan studios along the Turquoise Trail, great finds await discovery. Here are some of my recommendations for treasure-hunting fun.

Of all the shopping destinations in the Southwest, Old Town Albuquerque must be my favorite. I love the authentic feel of the Plaza and the streets and alleyways that branch from it, the non-pretentiousness of its shops and shopkeepers. Along these passageways you can find some of the region’s best selection and variety of Native American, Hispanic, and traditional Western goods. Because it doesn’t carry the status of Santa Fe and Taos as a well-established arts center, Albuquerque boasts some of the best values in Southwestern craftsmanship.

One of the best browsing experiences--not only in Albuquerque but in all of the Southwest--is Saints and Martyrs (404-A San Felipe Street NW, 505-224-9323, www.saints-martyrs.com). At this treasure-hunter’s dream, you might uncover an antique retablo from a country church, a rustic chair, rare museum-quality Hispanic crosses and boxes made of straw, unusual sculptural wall art, milagros, and other relics, all assembled with a true collector’s eye. The array of fascinating Hispanic religious art in this little space alongside Our Lady of Guadalupe chapel is eclectic and the prices surprisingly reasonable considering the quality of these works. Each piece is unique, so you’ll never have the same shopping experience twice.

Elsewhere in Albuquerque, the National Hispanic Cultural Center of New Mexico (1701 4th SW, 505-766-6604), a relative newcomer to the Albuquerque arts scene, is an excellent place to discover some of the state’s best examples of traditional Hispanic craft. You might score a find at its La Tiendita Gift Shop, which sells small rugs, pottery and wall art. Qué Chula (1427 Carlisle Boulevard NE, 505-255-0515) is a surprising discovery tucked into a non-descript commercial strip. This small, happy space displays a variety of whimsical and colorful handpainted furniture, including armoires with Day of the Dead themes, and other accent furniture and decorative items, many imported from Mexico. At the acclaimed workshop of Pimentel Guitars (3316 Lafayette Drive NE, 505-842-1420, www.pimentelguitars.com), you can commission Lorenzo Pimentel or one of his five sons to create a custom, hand-crafted guitar that is not just an instrument but a work of art. The Pimentels create intricate inlays and rosettes on an instrument that would make a fabulous display and conversation piece.

Along historic Route 66, Cowboys & Indians Antiques (4000 Central Avenue SE, 505-255-4054, www.cowboysandindiansnm.com) offers a fantastic jumble of gently used treasures. It’s worth a routine stop to marvel at its ever-changing display of vintage cowboy boots, saddles, Native American beadwork, baskets, ceremonial objects, pottery, antique signs and Western memorabilia. For Native American crafts, the Bien Mur Market Center on the outskirts of the city (100 Bien Mur Drive NE, 505-821-5400), bills itself as one of the largest tribe-owned and operated resellers of Native American craft in the Southwest. At this two-story extravaganza of pottery, textiles, jewelry, beadwork, and other traditional arts, you’re sure to find something authentic and beautiful to strike your fancy.

Heading north from Albuquerque along the historic Turquoise Trail, picturesque Madrid offers more opportunities for discovering treasures from the Native American, Hispanic, and Western traditions. Once a mining town, Madrid is now a haven for artisans and browsers, who can pick up some of the Southwest’s most unique home décor. Primitiva (2860 Main Street, 505-471-7904) boasts a sizeable collection of painted furniture, Mexican imports, and decorative items. Their large pine armoires are particularly beautiful in their simple, rustic charm. Seppanen & Daughters Fine Textiles (2879 State Road 14, www.finetextiles.com) offers an eclectic and quality array of rugs from the Navajo Nation, Oaxaca, and Tibet, alongside a half-dozen examples of hand-picked pieces of furniture. The knowledgeable staff can give you a quick education about the history of these pieces, as well as demonstrate how to “read” the weave to judge quality and value. Look for examples of their colorful rugs hanging over the front porch balcony of this converted house. After a refreshment at the picturesque Mine Shaft Tavern or the Original Madrid Soda Fountain, a visit to the Chumani Gallery will round out a treasure-hunting trip to Madrid. In this cozy cottage-turned-shop, owner Todd Klippenstein cleverly juxtaposes the contemporary and traditional, from wall art to jewelry, sculpture, and custom pieces.

Heading north to Taos, Chimayó is another mandatory stop on any treasure-hunter’s itinerary. The town, which boasts an important Spanish colonial pilgrimage church, has also been a center of Hispanic weaving for several centuries. Centinela Traditional Arts (Centinela Ranch, 505-351-2180, www.chimayoweavers.com) is a good place to locate rugs and other textiles following the historic Rio Grande patterns. Members of the Trujillo family are the torchbearers of this tradition, and are considered some of the premier weavers in the United States. Often you can observe the weavers at work, quietly turning out masterpieces at their looms.

Along a lovely wooded bend outside Santa Fe, Tesuque Glassworks (1510 Bishops Lodge Road, 505-988-2165) is a true off-the-beaten track find. Owner Charles Miner, along with other glass artists, blow this colorful molten material right before your eyes in their sizeable studio. You can buy from the small showroom, or commission a one-of-a-kind piece. Tesuque Glassworks stands alongside the Shidoni Bronze Foundary, another good spot to explore and witness works of art being made first-hand.

Heading north to Taos, one of the best places to discover traditional arts is La Unica Cosa (117 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, www.zapotec.com). An inviting courtyard lined with colorful Zapotec weavings and an antique handloom lures passerby into the maze-like showroom displaying a lovely array of fine-quality textiles of the renowned weavers of Oaxaca. Bosshard Fine Art Furnishings (112 C. Camino de la Placita, 505-751-9445, www.johnbosshard.com), carries an impressive collection of sideboards, tables, chairs, as well as hand-picked pieces from Native American and Southeast Asian artisans. Finally, browse the museum shop of the Millicent Rogers Museum (1504 Millicent Rogers Road, www.millicentrogers.org) for fine reproductions of items the museum carries. The shop also antique pieces like vintage pots from Acoma, Jemez, as well as contemporary weavings and baskets representing several esteemed Native American traditions.

Worth the trek to Los Ojos in the Chama Valley of Northern New Mexico, the 100-year-old Tierra Wools (91 Main Street, 505-588-7231, www.handweavers.com) offers an incomparable opportunity to witness the historical weaving traditions of the Rio Grande. This non-profit group, including weavers descended from Spanish immigrants who moved into the area as far back as the sixteenth century, supplies many New Mexican weavers with the raw wool to spin into rugs, clothing, and other goods. In this beautiful rural setting, you can watch weavers at their looms and ask questions as you browse their showroom of rugs, tapestries, blankets, and more.

In fact, one of the best parts of treasure-hunting across New Mexico is the opportunity to make a connection with the artisan who created your find, whether it’s a Rio Grande blanket, a Native American pot, or a rustic New Mexican santo. After all, behind that object stand the artisans, their stories, and the adventure of treasure-hunting itself. It’s those things that bring meaning to the objects in our homes that we value the most.

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